The 2013 Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Spéciale Les Montjolys is lovely, unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, walnuts, green apple, crisp stone fruit and fresh bread. Full-bodied, layered and structured, it's more gourmand and less austere than Les Chétillons but is still a taut, chiseled and notably structural wine that will really repay extended bottle age. As readers will remember, Les Montjolys is a lieu-dit that sits in a small depression where the soils are richer in clay than those of Les Chétillons.